On the design of clothing, the association of reflexivity may not be able to escape the brilliance of the stretch table, as well as the international brands and red carpet stars that are out of reach. But in fact, the clothing design is the object that we have the skin close to every day. In addition to the most superficial shape, there are more angles to discuss.Experiment and break through.
Recently designed in the late building Queen Zaha Hadid, located in London with a curvy curve, futuristic Roca GalleryMode in Flux exhibition, a hot topic, curated by the London curatorial team White Line Projects planning,Leading people from clothing that senses discoloration and deformation, to works that change shape with the wearer's mood, even responding to natural disasters and refugee issues, becoming a tent's novel design, let us first see, this and us The closest design to the body and life, a variety of amazing new applications.Whether it is the development of various fabric materials, or the design of modern living functions, and a multi-faceted response to environmental protection, the "Flowing Fashion" exhibition tries to break away from the existing fashion system, develop new application design, and stand on the front line to challenge clothing. The definition and possibilities of innovation.
From Korean designer Mason Jung The "Transformation Series" has a silhouette and fabric texture at first glance, but this piece of clothing can change the way it is worn through various sub-materials such as zippers and buttons. Jung, who has a solid tailoring technique, is a "variability" in his work. It is a rebellion against the constraints and restrictions in formal wear and the rigid and conservative social atmosphere of Korea. Responding to the first part of the exhibition, "Transformative" is trying to explore, why do we become passive recipients when facing clothing? Is there only a specific "correct" and "appropriate" way to accept clothing? If in the process of wearing clothes, can the wearer have more opportunities to participate?
Fashion Designer Mason Jung
There is also the famous PLEATS PLEASE series, which is a well-known Japanese designer, Issey Miyake. This precision pleated technology, which has been launched since 1993, has a multi-faceted method. It is easy to clean and not wrinkle-free. The characteristics of being busy and needing frequent travel are considered as a consideration. But the most impressive thing is the work that was created by the Royal College of Art architecture and interior students – a jacket that can become a tent. Made from light waterproof fabric with a large, convenient pocket and a carbon rod in the appropriate stitching, it instantly transforms into a light-structured temporary tent. The entire project is aimed at the migration of Syrian refugees facing Europe today, and is used when wading through mountains and refuge. Incorporating the design of clothing and living space, the ingenious call should be the designer of the year, Hussein Chalayan (review Hussein Chalayan's first dance director "GRAVITY FATIGUE Gravity Fatigue"The concept of "mobile" and "wartime migration clothing" explored in the work gives people a deeper understanding of cross-domain cooperation and imagination in a single profession. Many things can have more breakthrough solutions.
Then come into the Versatility area, where the designers are designed to have different systems that fit the modern lifestyle and change the life style. At the same time, the design of Nikelab X Sacai, which combines sportswear and fashion; Maharishi has been inspired by military uniforms since 1994, and is durable and functionally produced by fair trade and newly developed fabric technology; from China Young designer Chen Peng, with "One-sized Fashion", compares the body shape of the full-bodied and slim people through 3D scanning, and finally creates a clothing of various sizes on average. This is similar to the size standard of the clothing structure - one size, and at the same time acts on the applicable group of the series, which I call the average fashion. Chen Peng also believes that if "Social Equality" is an idealized state that is still in the process, then such "equal fashionism" is also a way to implement the concept of equality between groups.
The "smart design" that has been very popular in recent years is certainly not to be missed in this exhibition. Emphasis on the design of objects can recognize the changes in the environment, and take appropriate action response, such "Responsive" (Responsive) in the field of fashion design, designers have been developed with the cloth technology and do not stop in the works. Innovative functional fabrics have significant color, contour, or even texture changes to external stimuli such as temperature, light, motion, external forces, and chemicals. And the pioneer of smart clothing, the Italian designer Massimo Osti is a very representative figure. Osti studied various uniforms and sportswear, became familiar with various material structures, and created a functional brand based on garment engineering. STONE ISLAND. In the early 1990s, STONE ISLAND's famous "Ice Jacket" was born. This jacket made of thermal material can change with temperature - from yellow to dark green, from white to white. Royal blue, then from pink to silver. The "ice jacket", which is regarded as the pioneering fashion design and development, not only shows the characteristics of the clothing, but also allows the wearer to interact well.
In addition to the innovation of the material surface, digital parts have also been added to the territory of fashion design in recent years. Ying Gao's work from Canada is based on technology: it is initiated and changed by the eyes of others, and the clothing that is brightened or distorted by facial expression recognition technology and sensor technology allows Ying Gao The costumes are full of interaction and fun. Allowing individuals to change their appearance with various situations, clothing becomes an interface that allows the wearer and the viewer to have different experiences at the same time, exploring clothing as a strengthening of the personal field, like the possibility of daily armor.
With the multi-life style of modern people, the combination of fashion and function in the future is bound to become an increasingly clear trend. Each brand uses its own characteristics and design language to interpret the meaning of "function"; in the future, the threshold of functional clothing will become more and more easy to enter, accompanied by faster and faster technological advancement, more sophisticated high-tech elements will A greater amount of clothing – whether it's LED embedding, computer chip mating, wearable device bonding, near field communication, etc., these technologies that are detached from fabric technology will be more fully integrated with clothing – we I can expect that the appearance of fashion in the future will be more diverse and more and more inseparable from life. And how to strike a balance between functionality, aesthetics, and popular popularity, and how to combine re-engineering, physical wear, and environmental awareness in innovative design – perhaps the most challenging challenge and question that designers will face. .
Images Courtesy of White Line Projects, part of photos by Athena Chen.
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